well-known Pakistani Mountaineer, Crown of Karakorum, Presidential pride of Performance Award winner, Rajab Shah from Shimshal passed away today in Gilgit.
A Short biography (Born in early 1950s) is a mountaineer from Shimshal Hunza-Nagar, Pakistan. He started his mountaineering career as a High Altitude porter (HAP). In 1998, he became first Pakistani to climb all eight thousands in Pakistan. He achieved this feat without using supplemental Oxygen during climbs. He was privileged with President’s pride of performance Award in the field of sports in 1993. He also appears in 1991 Mountaineering Movie ‘K2’ as a Balti Porter. Presently he is an instructor and president of Shimshal Mountaineering School with mission statement. .
Rajab Shah is observing as a modest, humble and down to earth person. Despite of extreme achievements, he is barely known outside Mountaineering circle in Pakistan. He lives in his native town Shimshal and cab reached without appointment. Shimshal is home to several mountaineers and High Attitude Porters (HAP).
Shah was employed as porter on various European or Asiatic expeditions. His prime role was establishment of Camp-I and Camp-II. Out of pleasure he started climbing above and reached summits. Rajab’s first 8000er ascent came in 1989, when he submitted Nanga Parbat as a part of Garman-Pakistani Expedition lead by Ekke Gundelach and Sher khan. He used a variant of Kinshofer route to reach the top. Later Rajab topped Gasherbrum-I twice in 1990 and 1992. In 1992, he reached summit as a porter through his Japanese Mountaineers were unable to top. He stood on top of K2, highest peak in Pakistan, in summer of 1995. Rajab Shah was also a member of 1997 Sino-Pakistan Expedition to Mount Everest. Team remained 200 m short of summit, which remains a real regret for Rajab, next year he summit Gasherbrum-II to become first Pakistani to climb all five 8000ers (K2,Nanga parbat, G-I, Broad peak, G-II) in Pakistan.
Rajab summit Muztagh Ata (7546m) as Sardar (leader of Porters) in 2002.
Via Shimshal Mountaineering School